Returning to a place is always different for better or worse - The Blue Mosque

This morning at breakfast on this rainy day we had a long conversation with a German family and a couple from Ukraine who feel strongly that Ukraine is part of Russia.  It was an interesting sharing, much in English for my sake,  partly in German ,  with some sharing in Russian between the Germans and the Ukrainians. 


Last time we visited Istanbul I was awe struck by the Blue Mosque.  It was quiet, prayerful, serene,  huge, and beauty-full. It felt like a place of prayer.  I have wondered why my friends who have visited it recently haven't had the same experience.  I realize now that last time we had visited after the cruise ship crowds had left .  That was not possible today as .the hours it is open for visitors have been greatly reduced.  It was neither quiet nor serene.  The visitor area was packed.   It felt much less like a place of prayer. 

The area reserved for Muslims

It's made of thousands and thousands of beautiful and unique tiles, 

mostly in  shades of blue.

Looking up

 

This little boy was praying behind a line of men.  Clearly proud of his faith.

 

I  sat at the base of one of the great pillars for a time to reflect.

 

It is very important that shoes be removed before stepping into the Mosque and on the carpet.  Bags are given for shoes.  One woman visitor as we were leaving put on one leather shoe with high laces.   An attendant came over to tell her she must take it off.  Sadly she did not comply until he had to strongly confront her.  It was sad to see as these forms of respect are so simple and disrespect so damaging.  I can understand limiting the hours for visitors if they do not show respect for those who allow the access to their holy place.

 

  

I had my usual per trip fall so we returned to our room with dinner to ice my knee and catch news on a few of the 2000 satellite  TV and radio channels.  I don't think the extreme drama CNN gave to the space vehicle crash by interrupting all programming gives the rest of the world an impressive picture of our values   Seeing how other parts of the world view us, mostly through these news casts is a bit humbling.

Our first full day - Cistern, Blue Mosque, and dinner

We both slept until 10 am and just made breakfast in the rooftop room where it is served.  We have a view of the Blue Mosque from there.  Still jet lagged and a rainy day so lounged around our room some more and finally went out mid afternoon and walked to the Basilica Cistern next to Haggia Sophia (Aya Sofya here) which we didn't get to last trip.  Not a great loss but interesting on a second go round.

 

The water is about 2 feet deep and many carp live in it

 View as you enter

Ceilings

It was built to provide water for the city of Istanbul during the 6th century CE. It is  a huge  underground  space  with  336 marble columns, which are supported by arches.

One f the 2 mesusa heads. The other is upside down.

Two Medusa heads, were used as pedestals at the bottom of two columns in one corner of the cistern. It is not known why they were placed there or why they are positioned as they are.  Many myths surround them.  The cistern was used as a location for the 1963 James Bond film From Russia with Love which I remember seeing in the late 60's and recognized the Cistern when I saw it.

 

From there we walked over to the Blue Mosque though it was time for prayer and not open to the public

 

Haggia Sophia from the Blue Mosque

 

 

There are MANY small restaurants in the area with heated outdoor, and indoor seating.  Each has a menu on view and a "salesman" (all men) whose job is to entice you to come in.  Some are overbearing and cause us to run off , some have learned to let you browse the menu in peace,  some bring you tea while you are looking.  This man was a delight.  We actually had a long conversation with him about food, holidays, Islam,  tourists, his mother's cooking.  We did eat there in a window seat and he would wave to us periodically. 

 

I LOVE this bread.  It is the consistency of a crispy roll but like a popover inside - hollow.  It is served with various dipping or spreading goodies such as cucumber yogurt,  olives in good olive oil,  butter,  feta cheese, etc.  This is before....

This is during.....

This is after

 

Comments are enabled and welcome if you choose.:)

 

We have arrived In Istanbul! (not Constantiople :)

This trip began with my first wheelchair experiment .  I found you have to request it for all legs of the trip to be sure to get it.  It was a very good decision.   At Logan (Boston Airport) we were whisked through what seemed to be a security line for  - lets say people of an age.  We were told "don't take shoes off"  Don't remove belts" "don't take out computers".  The only thing I had to get out was my chapstick which sets off the system every time I forget.  We were through in no time.

The flight from Boston to Zurich was grueling.   We left at 11 p,m.  and arrived 6 am Boston time and 1 pm Zurich time.  The man in the seat in front of me immediately reclined his seat as far a possible into my lap and fell asleep.  Dinner came and I asked if he could raise his seat.  The attendant said he was sleeping.  I ate with the seat in my lap.  A first.  Not much sleep as I was pinned in for the night,  He could not raise it for 5 am breakfast either as he was "still sleeping".  So long Swiss air. 

It gets better!!.

In Zurich I was met and whisked to our new terminal for the flight to Istanbul.  That leg I did sleep most of the  almost 3  hours and we arrived in Istanbul after flying over the snow capped Alps.  I called a greeting to Claire as we  flew over France.

Even though Daylight saving came to Turkey last Sunday it was dark on  our arrival.  I was very glad for the wheel chair for the ride in the HUGE Istanbul Airport.  We were whisked through a special Customs line,  and I sat in the chair while waiting for out luggage to appear,

From there I rose form the wheelchair and walked which was a LOT easier because I had not done the hard floors of the airports.  

We took the subway and familiar tram from our last visit to a bustling Sultanhamet - the old section of Istanbul.   In front of me stood the six lighted minarets of the Blue Mosque.  This area was our home base in 2012 and it felt like returning to a wonderful familiar place.  

We checked in to our hotel and immediately went out for dinner.  Lots of people around.  I love seeing women in Burkas,  colorful scarves,  jeans,   colored hair and lots of small children being children.  I took a few pictures and we ate at a favorite restaurant where the manager remembered us which was fun.  (Lish - if you are reading, it is right next to the Nomade where we both stayed I 2012).

Returning to our room we discovered the terrible mine collapse at the far East end of the Turkey.

Now I am turning in early - well its 4ish pm in Boston but I feel every bit of the 11 pm here and besides I want to be up for breakfast on the roof of our hotel with a view not to be missed.  AND breakfast is served 6:30 to 10:30.  My kind of hours.

Blue Mosque at Night - my camera can't pick it up very well.

Streets full of people

Norbert's Chi Tea and my apple tea

Delicious bread with yogurt, garlic dip

Norbert's /Fish diner



 My bread with yogurt  dip, lamb, and salad.

we had baklava for dessert,

Happy and exhausted! 

Return to Turkey 2014

Return to Turkey  2014

When we visited Turkey September 2012 we fell in love with this country and it's people and knew we wanted to return.  We did not expect to return this soon. So Tuesday night we will fly to Istanbul via Zurich.  Were we to fly only to Zurich the price would have been twice as much (How the airlines figure this  I have no idea but it works for us!)  We could not resist.

During this trip we will visit Istanbul,  and Konya (home of Rumi and the Spiritual center of Turkey) , both of which we visited last time, and Bodrum which will be new to us and then back to Istanbul. Konya was known in Biblical times as Iconium .

For those new to our travels, we are in our 70's and much prefer independent travel using public transit when possible to maximize our interactions with local people and other tourists from many countries. 

We have a long list of places we didn't get to visit last time and also places we want to return to.  Each day we will pick one or two. 

Often at night i am too tired to write much so it is often more pictures than story.

I believe I have comments enabled finally so hope I will hear from some of you.  In any case, come along!